Museum Monday: The National Museum of Catalan Art

A Millennium of Visual Arts in an Exposition Palace

(4 min read) Barcelona’s national art museum offers an unparalleled journey through a millennium of Catalan (and European) art, from medieval frescoes to Modernisme interiors — all housed in a monumental palace built for the 1929 World’s Fair.

1. The “National Palace” near the top of Montjuic.

Overview

The Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (MNAC; National Museum of Catalan Art) — Barcelona’s largest and most prestigious art museum — was founded in stages during the 19th century. It is now housed in the “National Palace” — a massive classical building near the top of Montjuic hill, constructed as part of the 1929 Barcelona International Exposition (World’s Fair).

2. Looking up at the dome in the central atrium on the upper floor.

The collection covers a millennium, from the 11th century to the 20th and is split into three main sections: Romanesque and Gothic (11th-15th Cs), Renaissance to Baroque (15th-18th Cs), and Modern (19th-20th Cs).

3. A gallery of medieval/Gothic art.

The basis of MNAC’s collection is Catalan art, but — especially from there Renaissance period onward — there are also a lot of works from elsewhere in Europe on display, making for a nice variety as you wander the chronologically arranged galleries.

4. Late 19th century posters and paintings from France and elsewhere.

It is a massive place and a massive collection. Being unable to handle more than about two hours in a museum before my brain is full, I had to make two visits here just to get a basic sense of what was on display and spend some real time with a piece or two in each gallery.

5. Frescoes, c1123, from a parish church in Taull.

One of the more impressive aspects of the collection are the dozen or more reconstructed interiors of Romanesque churches — transported from around Catalonia and painstakingly reassembled in specially built galleries within the museum.

6. A gallery with reliquaries and other liturgical objects, featuring reconstructed frescoes in the ceiling.

7. Epically scaled “The Battle of Tetouan (1864) by Maria Fortunay is the focal point of this gallery.

8. Echoed forms in this sculpture and painting pairing.

9. An “Orientalism”-focused gallery.

There’s a great collection of art, furniture, and architectural elements from the fin de siecle “Modernisme” movement, which was — to oversimplify — the Catalan interpretation of art nouveau, expanded into an entire cultural movement.

10. Furniture by Jujol and doors by Gaudi are some of the highlights in this gallery.

11. An integrated work of furniture and wall paneling by Gaspar Homar.

12. The “Oval Room” at the back of the museum, used for concerts and special events.

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Art in Detail

For a detailed look at some of the pieces here I found particularly interesting amd/or photogenic, check out these recent Substack Notes, displayed in chronological order of creation:

Practical Information

Where: Montjuic, Barcelona, Spain

My Visits: 22 & 24 September 2024

Best For: Lovers of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, fans of Gaudí and Modernisme/Art Nouveau, and anyone interested in how regional identity shapes art across the centuries.

Pro Tip: Montjuic is home to many museums and sights, so check out what is around the MNAC and maybe spend the better part of a day here.