Museum Monday: The Bargello
Florence’s Undervisited Gem
(4 min read) Located in an extensive medieval palace and with a spectacular collection of sculpture and decorative arts, the Museo Nazionale de Bargello offers a delightful respite from the hordes in Florence.
Overview
Any serious art lover — especially one into the Renaissance — would consider Florence worth several weeks of their time. Unfortunately, hordes of day trippers and one-night-stand tourists make visiting the most famous sights — like the Uffizi, Academy Gallery, and <link>Cathedral — something of a hassle (if not a downright nightmare).
On the other hand, since so many of the millions who visit the city don’t stay long enough, there are plenty of museums that can be visited in relative quiet even on a weekend afternoon. I could post Museum Mondays on well over a dozen museums here — and given enough time, perhaps I will.
Since the <link>Duomo was my feature two days ago, I figured I should post something from this town’s amazing options, and decided on the Bargello. Not a true hidden gem, but also ignored by the vast majority of visitors. Which is strange because while Pitti Palace is more famous, and the archeological museum has a bigger collection, the Bargello offers an architectural and artistic combination that is at least as good as anything else on offer in the city — at least to my medievally-inclined mind, and excepting of course the uber-important Uffizi.
The museum is housed in the oldest public building in Florence, originally constructed in the mid 13th century as the headquarters of the Capitano del Popolo (“Captain of the People+) and later serving as the residence and workplace of the Podesta, the city's highest magistrate. By the 16th century, it became the headquarters of the Bargello (the chief of police), giving the palace its current name.
Today it houses a very large collection of Gothic and Renaissance sculpture, including masterpieces by Donatello, Michelangelo, Cellini, Giambologna, and more. The atmospheric medieval chambers make for a perfect backdrop to these treasures.
The museum's collection extends beyond sculpture to include a wide range of decorative arts. Medieval ivories, majolica ceramics, Islamic pottery, small bronzes… there is a lot of appreciate here, and often in gorgeously decorated interiors.
Unlike the Academy, which many visitors race through after seeing David, the Bargello rewards slow contemplation and close attention. You'll find entire halls where you can stand alone with world-class masterpieces, something increasingly rare in Florence's more famous museums.
Don’t Miss
The Cappella della Maddalena (“Magdalen Chapel”) — which if I recall correctly is tucked away from the main routes — with extensive but damaged frescos by Giotto di Bondone, as well beautiful choir stalls and other furnishings.
Art in Detail
For a detailed look at some of the pieces here I found particularly interesting or photogenic, check out these recent Substack Notes:
Practical Information
Where: Florence, Italy
My Visits: 13 & 14 October 2021
Best For: Renaissance sculpture enthusiasts; art lovers seeking tranquility away from Florence's crowds; medieval architecture buffs; anyone who wants to see masterpieces without the crush of tourists.
Pro Tip: The museum is arranged thematically rather than chronologically, which can be confusing. Pick up a floor plan at the entrance to make sure you don't miss key works. Also, consider visiting in the late afternoon when day-trippers have moved on to their next destination.
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The Bargello is marvelous, add the Duomo musuem to your must sees while in Florence. The Baptisry Doors and one of Michelangelo 3 Pieta's are just a small sample. Donatellos Mary Magdalene is worth the price of admission.
I absolutely agree with you about the Bargello. A marvelous museum. The Academy, other than David, doesn't hold a candle to it. . . .