Museum Monday: National Gallery Prague (Trade Fair Palace)
Modern Art in a Modernist Palace
(4 min read) An easily overlooked gem in Prague, the Trade Fair Palace branch of the National Gallery houses an expansive and fascinating collection of 19th–21st century Czech and European art in a striking modernist building.
Overview
The National Gallery Prague is divided up into several branches, each with a specific focus. This post is about their “modern” collection (19th to early 21st centuries) in the modernist Trade Fair Palace building.
This branch, unlike most of the others, is outside the historic core around Old Town and the castle district (Staré Město and Hradčany) and so the easiest for a tourist to miss. But if you like modern art you should make a visit here a priority. I waited until the last day of my weeklong Prague stay to come here and regret it — the place is massive and its collection fascinating. I could have easily made two trips here.
The building was originally constructed in 1925 to serve as a hall for trade fairs and is notable as the first functionalist building in Prague, as well as the largest functionalist building at the time of its construction. After a fire in 1974, it was given to the National Gallery Prague; it was reopened as a museum in 1995.
The collection is divided into two main sections. One floor is dedicated to their general collection of European art during the so-called “long 19th century” (1789-1914). It’s heavy on Czech and Central European artists, but given that most museums are light on the region, the mix makes for a nice experience.
This floor alone is worth a couple hours, and is featured in photos 3-7 below. (You will also find several of the paintings from here shown in detail in the “Art in Detail” section below).
The other floors are dedicated to 20th (and some 21st) century Czech artists and their historical context, and shown in photos 8-13 below. I especially likes the exhibition that focused on 1918-38 (photos 8-12), as it grouped paintings by region and with labeling that provided a lot of context and history.
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Art in Detail
For a detailed look at some of the pieces here I found particularly interesting or photogenic, check out these recent Substack Notes:
Practical Information
Where: Prague (Holešovice district), Czech Republic
My Visit: 2 November 2024
Best For: Lovers of 19th and 20th century European art, especially those with an interest in Central Europe’s take on the wider trends of this period.
Pro Tip: The place is huge, and worth two visits if you can manage it. Or plan on talking a lunch in the on site cafe to give your brain a rest between exhibition sessions.
I also didn't budget enough time when I went last summer! I liked the organization by theme in the Long Century section. It brings attention to Czech artists by situating them among those more well-known to Westerners.